Chez Michel

Tucked around the corner from Gare du Nord is one of Paris's best kept culinary secrets. It is the kind of place where you know you will always need to make a booking, as no matter which day of the week or what time of year, as it is always buzzing. And rightly so: chef Thierry Breton is very proud of his Breton roots, and goodness knows he makes the most of this influence and his exceptional way with seasonal produce, to the benefit of all who have the good fortune to dine at Chez Michel.

It's hard to fathom that a restaurant with food this good, such a convivial atmosphere, a chef so attentive and a wine list so interesting to exist without some kind of international following, but it does - and largely without the tourist hordes. There are not many places in Paris that serve a 30 euro three course dinner that leaves you both sated (read: stuffed) and amazed at the ingenuity and quality of each and every dish.

I was surprised that the Chef took the time to talk us through each stage of our meal, explaining the more complicated ingredients and cooking techniques, and sharing amusing little anecdotes that explain the origin of the dishes. His attentions did not end there: he served drinks and the plates, and cleared the table when we were done - something most chefs of this calibre would be far too proud to stoop to. The guy is overworked, but clearly, he loves it.

Amazingly, Chef also invited me into his kitchen - something unheard of by most cooks of renown, as the cuisine usually remains the hallowed stomping ground of the kitchen staff only and is certainty not open to the paying public.

This light attitude helps you understand Chez Michel's traditional French decorations (a Francophone's wet dream) and the little kitsch touches that lurk on mantels and in corners: this is a man who understands that one can take one's food very seriously, without doing the same to himself. This is possibly the greatest compliment of all. Thierry Breton has humility and is a kitchen genius; what more could you want?

As for the food? Well, just look at the photos. There is a reason that the existence of Chez Michel is a morsel of information that Parisian's like to hold closely to their chest: some secrets are better when they are kept.


Chez Michel / 10 rue de Belzunce / 75010 Paris / Ph: (+33) 01 44 53 06 20 / Hours: Closed Saturday, Sunday, Monday lunch and all of August / bookings essential / metro: Gare du Nord